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HOW WE GROW OUR IRISES

HOW WE SEND IRISES GROWING IRISES

TRIED & TESTED IRIS VARIETIES
Our nursery is situated just on the edge of Shawbury in Shropshire. Shawbury (as we have been frequently told) is famously known as one of the coldest places in England. For this reason we feel that if a variety grows well for us, it will thrive in any British garden. This may not seem important, but some iris varieties have been raised in warmer climates than ours and are therefore less hardy in areas of our country that are prone to high rainfall.

OUR IRIS CROP
Each year, during September, we lift and replant our iris crop. We find that September is the best month for us, because it is more likely to rain than it is in August, and the soil is still very warm. All our irises are lifted, trimmed and prepared for replanting by hand. As you can imagine this is a long, (and expensive job), but very rewarding. The irises are then planted by machine.

Iris varieties multiply up at different rates. In general we find that Tall Bearded Irises can take 2 years to produce 4/5 new plants. The smaller varieties are much more productive. If you compare this to other popular herbaceous plants, such as hardy geraniums (which will quite possible divided into 10 new plants the year after they are first planted) you can see why irises can be expensive. In addition, of the 4/5plants that your one stock plant has multiplied into, some must be kept for the following year and some for the year afte thatr, which leaves only a few to sell!! It's a long business, I should know after 25 years!! Of course there are exceptions to the rule. So please bare this in mind if you are buying on price, irises cost money because they are handled with loving hands and our staff want to be paid!.

HOW WE SEND OUT OUR IRISES
Irises are dispatched from September to late October, then again in March. The earlier you order irises, the earlier you will receive them. Irises planted in spring are less likely to flower in the first year than those planted in autumn. Even then they do not always bloom during the first year after planting. Bearded irises are sent out as bare rooted plants, while Siberian irises are wrapped to keep in the moisture.

PLANTING AND CARING FOR BEARDED IRISES
Bearded irises require a well-drained soil that is not acid. They do not do well in clay soils, but if you really want to try them in a damp soil try mixing a good quantity of grit into the soil to increase drainage before planting. Alternatively, try growing them in a raised bed. The iris rhizomes (these are the fat bit at the bottom of the leaves from which the roots emerge from) must be exposed to the sun. If these are covered then the plants will fail to flower. By the way, we send out planting instructions with all iris orders.
Fertilizing
Irises can be fertilized with a granular fertilizer that is low in nitrogen. High nitrogen feeds will cause rhizome rot. This should be done in spring, and then again in autumn as the roots are developing.
Dividing
Irises should be divided every 3 years, and more often for smaller varieties. If they become crowded they will cease blooming. This should be done after flowering - most books will tell you this can be done from 6 weeks after the flowers have finished, but the division of irises can be carried out well into autumn.To divided irises, lift the clump with a fork, and snap off the new outer shoots. Discard any old inner rhizomes which are not showing foliage, before replanting them.

DISEASES & PESTS on BEARDED IRISES
Leafspot
In Britain the only disease that irises tend to suffer from is leaf spot. This causes brown spots on the leaves and is encouraged by warm, damp weather. It makes the plant look untidy but is unlikely to kill them. As it is a fungal disease it can be prevented with a fungal powder called Dithane 945. If your irises are prone to leaf spot, it is best to remove all dead leaf matter and weeds, then spray with the fungicide early in the year. If you are adverse to spraying, ensure there is good ventilation to the base of the plant, trim and remove (from the garden) any affected foliage . Also replace the top soil around the plant so that the fungal spores that sit in the soil will not be 'splashed up' on to the foliage by rain.
Rhizome Rot
Sometimes irises may be affected by rhizome rot. This is caused by rich soils that are high nitrogen, or damp soils. It is easy to diagnose because the rhizome goes mushy and smells awful. It is best to cut out the affected area, and let itdry out.
Slugs
Slugs are the only real problem, and then they will only attact irises in gardens that are infested with the nasty beasties. It's up to you how you deal with them, but they do love the young leaves of irises, particularly if they have foliage near to them. Therefore for many reasons make sure that your bearded irises do not become over grown with weeds or other garden plants.



Iris Main Page Home Page	HOW WE GROW OUR IRISES HOW WE SEND IRISES GROWING IRISES TRIED & TESTED IRIS VARIETIES Our nursery is situated just on the edge of Shawbury in Shropshire. Shawbury (as we have been frequently told) is famously known as one of the coldest places in England. For this reason we feel that if a variety grows well for us, it will thrive in any British garden. This may not seem important, but some iris varieties have been raised in warmer climates than ours and are therefore less hardy in areas of our country that are prone to high rainfall. OUR IRIS CROP Each year, during September, we lift and replant our iris crop. We find that September is the best month for us, because it is more likely to rain than it is in August, and the soil is still very warm. All our irises are lifted, trimmed and prepared for replanting by hand. As you can imagine this is a long, (and expensive job), but very rewarding. The irises are then planted by machine. Iris varieties multiply up at different rates. In general we find that Tall Bearded Irises can take 2 years to produce 4/5 new plants. The smaller varieties are much more productive. If you compare this to other popular herbaceous plants, such as hardy geraniums (which will quite possible divided into 10 new plants the year after they are first planted) you can see why irises can be expensive. In addition, of the 4/5plants that your one stock plant has multiplied into, some must be kept for the following year and some for the year afte thatr, which leaves only a few to sell!! It's a long business, I should know after 25 years!! Of course there are exceptions to the rule. So please bare this in mind if you are buying on price, irises cost money because they are handled with loving hands and our staff want to be paid!. HOW WE SEND OUT OUR IRISES Irises are dispatched from September to late October, then again in March. The earlier you order irises, the earlier you will receive them. Irises planted in spring are less likely to flower in the first year than those planted in autumn. Even then they do not always bloom during the first year after planting. Bearded irises are sent out as bare rooted plants, while Siberian irises are wrapped to keep in the moisture. PLANTING AND CARING FOR BEARDED IRISES Bearded irises require a well-drained soil that is not acid. They do not do well in clay soils, but if you really want to try them in a damp soil try mixing a good quantity of grit into the soil to increase drainage before planting. Alternatively, try growing them in a raised bed. The iris rhizomes (these are the fat bit at the bottom of the leaves from which the roots emerge from) must be exposed to the sun. If these are covered then the plants will fail to flower. By the way, we send out planting instructions with all iris orders. Fertilizing Irises can be fertilized with a granular fertilizer that is low in nitrogen. High nitrogen feeds will cause rhizome rot. This should be done in spring, and then again in autumn as the roots are developing. Dividing Irises should be divided every 3 years, and more often for smaller varieties. If they become crowded they will cease blooming. This should be done after flowering - most books will tell you this can be done from 6 weeks after the flowers have finished, but the division of irises can be carried out well into autumn.To divided irises, lift the clump with a fork, and snap off the new outer shoots. Discard any old inner rhizomes which are not showing foliage, before replanting them. DISEASES & PESTS on BEARDED IRISES Leafspot In Britain the only disease that irises tend to suffer from is leaf spot. This causes brown spots on the leaves and is encouraged by warm, damp weather. It makes the plant look untidy but is unlikely to kill them. As it is a fungal disease it can be prevented with a fungal powder called Dithane 945. If your irises are prone to leaf spot, it is best to remove all dead leaf matter and weeds, then spray with the fungicide early in the year. If you are adverse to spraying, ensure there is good ventilation to the base of the plant, trim and remove (from the garden) any affected foliage . Also replace the top soil around the plant so that the fungal spores that sit in the soil will not be 'splashed up' on to the foliage by rain. Rhizome Rot Sometimes irises may be affected by rhizome rot. This is caused by rich soils that are high nitrogen, or damp soils. It is easy to diagnose because the rhizome goes mushy and smells awful. It is best to cut out the affected area, and let itdry out. Slugs Slugs are the only real problem, and then they will only attact irises in gardens that are infested with the nasty beasties. It's up to you how you deal with them, but they do love the young leaves of irises, particularly if they have foliage near to them. Therefore for many reasons make sure that your bearded irises do not become over grown with weeds or other garden plants.
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